Harf
Script shown with the Urdu

چل چھیا چھیا Chal Chhaiyya Chhaiyya — Walk On, Walk In the Shade

Gulzar

1934– living

Qawwali

A man is walking on the roof of a train moving through the hills of north India, and the song he is singing keeps coming back to one idea: whoever has the shade of love over their head is walking on paradise. The feet are on the roof, the beloved is somewhere ahead, and the whole song is a search for that beloved conducted in the vocabulary of the Sufi path. Chaiyya is the shade. The word is also the song's name, and every verse walks under it.

Gulzar wrote it for Mani Ratnam's Dil Se in 1998, and the setting, with Sukhwinder Singh singing against the rhythm of the train, made it the most widely heard Indian song of its decade. Six passages ahead. The beloved keeps changing what it is: a fragrance, a verse from the Quran, a shadow, a colour. The search stays the same.

01  — jinke sar pe ishq ki chhaan

جن کے سر پہ عشق کی چھاؤں
پاؤں کے نیچے جنت ہوگی
چل چھیا چھیا چھیا چھیا
چل چھیا چھیا چھیا چھیا

जिनके सर पे इश्क़ की छाँव
पाँव के नीचे जन्नत होगी
चल चैय्या चैय्या चैय्या चैय्या
चल चैय्या चैय्या चैय्या चैय्या

jinke sar pe ishq ki chhaan
paanv ke neeche jannat hogi
chal chhaiyya chhaiyya chhaiyya chhaiyya
chal chhaiyya chhaiyya chhaiyya chhaiyya

Whoever has the shade of love over their head will have paradise beneath their feet. Walk on, walk in the shade.

The whole song in two lines, before the song starts. Chhaiyya is the shade a tree throws, and the Sufi tradition has always used it for the shelter of divine love. Jannat underfoot is the guarantee the verse makes. The command that follows, chal, walk, turns the promise into a motion. Nobody in this song stands still.

چھاؤں chhaan
shade
جنت jannat
paradise

02  — sar ishq ki chhaan chal chhaiyya chhaiyya

سر عشق کی چھاؤں چل چھیا چھیا
پاؤں جنت چلے چل چھیا چھیا

सर इश्क़ की छाँव चल चैय्या चैय्या
पाँव जन्नत चले चल चैय्या चैय्या

sar ishq ki chhaan chal chhaiyya chhaiyya
paanv jannat chale chal chhaiyya chhaiyya

The shade of love over the head, walk on. The feet walking to paradise, walk on.

The vow is repeated with the grammar rearranged, as mantras are. Sar and paanv, head and foot, hold the whole body of the believer between the shade above and the paradise below. The body is literally the walk, and the walk is the prayer.

03  — voh yaar hai jo khushbu ki tarah

وہ یار ہے جو خوشبو کی طرح
جس کی زبان اردو کی طرح
میری شام رات، میری کائنات
وہ یار میرا سئیّا سئیّا

वो यार है जो ख़ुशबू की तरह
जिसकी ज़ुबान उर्दू की तरह
मेरी शाम रात, मेरी कायनात
वो यार मेरा सैय्या सैय्या

voh yaar hai jo khushbu ki tarah
jiski zubaan urdu ki tarah
meri shaam raat, meri kaayanat
voh yaar mera saiyya saiyya

She is the beloved, and she is like a fragrance. Her speech is like Urdu. She is my evening, my night, my whole universe. That beloved of mine, saiyya saiyya.

The beloved is met through the two most evanescent things the tradition knows, a smell and a language. Khushbu because a fragrance is presence without body. Urdu because the language of poetry is also the language of love, and the compliment doubles back on the song itself: it is in Urdu that one can say this. Saaiyya is a call from the folk songs, an exclamation with no meaning and total meaning.

کائنات kaayanat
the universe, the whole of creation
زبان zubaan
the tongue; a language

04  — gulposh kabhi itraaye kahin

گل پوش کبھی اترائے کہیں
مہکے تو نظر آ جائے کہیں
تعویذ بنا کے پہن اسے
آیت کی طرح مل جائے کہیں

गुलपोश कभी इतराए कहीं
महके तो नज़र आ जाए कहीं
तावीज़ बनाके पहन उससे
आयत की तरह मिल जाए कहीं

gulposh kabhi itraaye kahin
maheke to nazar aa jaaye kahin
taaviz banaake pehen usse
aayat ki tarah mil jaaye kahin

Sometimes she shows herself off, covered in flowers, and if she is fragrant she will be spotted somewhere. Make her into a charm and wear her, so that meeting her is like meeting a verse of the Quran somewhere.

Gulposh is a bride wrapped in flowers, and the word is doing double work: the beloved is a bride, and the song is the wedding procession. Then the search turns itself into religion. A taaviz is an amulet worn against harm, usually a folded paper with a verse on it. Wearing the beloved as a taaviz makes her a protection, and meeting her by accident becomes meeting an aayat, a revealed verse, by accident. Every meeting is an answer to a prayer nobody has said aloud.

گلپوش gulposh
covered in flowers
اترانا itrana
to preen, to show oneself off
تعویذ taaviz
an amulet worn for protection
آیت aayat
a verse of the Quran

05  — yaar misaale os chale

یار مثالے اوس چلے
پاؤں کے تلے فردوس چلے
کبھی ڈال ڈال کبھی پات پات
میں ہوا پہ ڈھونڈوں اس کے نشان

यार मिसाले ओस चले
पाँव के तले फ़िरदौस चले
कभी डाल डाल कभी पात पात
मैं हवा पे ढूँढूँ उसके निशान

yaar misaale os chale
paanv ke tale firdaus chale
kabhi daal daal kabhi paat paat
main hawa pe dhoondun uske nishaan

The beloved walks light as dew, and paradise walks beneath her feet. Branch by branch, leaf by leaf, I search the wind for her traces.

The verse does the search in the idiom of the hunt. The beloved is prey and paradise at once, a girl light as dew and the firdaus, the highest garden, moving under her steps. Then the lover is left with the two things that always escape: the wind, and a scent. He searches branch by branch and leaf by leaf, which is a gardener's search, not a hunter's. The whole verse is a gentle confession that she cannot be caught.

مثال misaal
a likeness, a comparison
اوس os
dew
فردوس firdaus
paradise
نشان nishaan
a trace, a mark left behind

06  — main uske roop ka shaidaayi

میں اس کے روپ کا شیدائی
وہ دھوپ چھاؤں سا ہرجائی
وہ شوخ کا رنگ بدلتا ہے
میں رنگ روپ کا سودائی

मैं उसके रूप का शैदाई
वो धूप छाँव सा हरजाई
वो शोख़ का रंग बदलता है
मैं रंग रूप का सौदाई

main uske roop ka shaidaayi
voh dhoop chhaan sa harjaayi
voh shokh ka rang badalta hai
main rang roop ka saudaai

I am the madman of her beauty. She is a deserter, changing like sun and shade. Her mischief changes colour, and I am the trader in colour and form.

The song's only turn toward comedy. Shaida is the lover consumed by love, the highest devotional station. Harjaai is a cheat who changes allegiance, and the rhyme sets the two against each other: the song's lover is constant and the beloved is not. Saudaai, a dealer in goods, makes the lover a trader who will buy any colour she sells. The devotion of the earlier verses survives the joke, which is exactly the point of telling it.

شیدائی shaidaayi
one madly devoted to someone
ہرجائی harjaayi
one who belongs everywhere and to nobody
شوخ shokh
playful, bold, mischievous
سودائی saudaai
one driven mad by an obsession

Reading it whole

The song runs on a single promise, and the promise is made in the first two lines. Ishq, love, is the shade; whoever stands in it has paradise underfoot. Everything after that is elaboration, and the elaboration keeps climbing. The beloved is compared, in turn, to a fragrance, to a verse of the Quran, to faith itself. The lover does not compare himself to anything. He is the one who has lost something, and the something is always the same beloved.

The most quoted verse is the one that names the beloved's speech: her tongue is like Urdu. It is the oldest compliment in the region, and Gulzar has put it back in a love song where it sounds freshly said. The other verses search by other senses. The beloved wears a charm made of himself, so that meeting her is like meeting a verse of the Quran by accident. Her footprints are lighter than dew. The lover hunts her scent on the wind.

The last passage turns the tables. He is the devoted one, the lover fixed in his love, shaida. She is the fickle one, changing colour like the sun and shade, harjaai. It is the one joke in an otherwise wholly devotional song, and it keeps the whole thing human. The shadow is over his head, not hers.

The recording is the film's, shot on a moving train with Malaika Arora dancing on the roof beside the singer. The train rhythm is built into the music, and the song has outlived the film it was made for; it is the one Indian song people who know nothing else of Indian cinema can hum.

Recordings

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Text and rights

Devanagari text supplied and checked by a reader who knows the language. The Urdu script and the transliteration follow that reading.

The song is from the film Dil Se (1998), music A. R. Rahman, lyrics Gulzar. The refrain and the antara lines repeat in the recording more often than they are printed here.

Gulzar is alive and the song is recent work. It is quoted here as the subject of Harf's own criticism: the translation, the reading of each passage and the essay around them are original work written for this page. If you hold the rights and would like something changed, tell us on Instagram.