Harf
Script shown with the Urdu

چھلا Challa — The Ring, the Wanderer

Gulzar

1934– living

Geet

Somebody is walking the lanes asking strangers a single question: where does that one live? He is the challa, the wanderer, and he has been looking so long that the looking has become who he is. The song is set in Punjab, in the Punjabi that Gulzar grew up speaking, and it lets the wanderer answer his own question in his own way: the beloved is a colour, a scent, a voice in the wind.

Gulzar wrote it for Jab Tak Hai Jaan in 2012, and Rabbi Shergill's recording made it the song of that film's grief and stubborn hope. Five passages ahead. The last one is a confession of how long love has had him: neither meeting nor separation, and the nights that will not end.

01  — challa ki labhda phire

چھلا کی لبدا پھرے
چھلا کی لبدا پھرے
یارو اُسدا گھر کیڑا
لوکن تو پچھدا پھرے

छल्ला की लभदा फिरे
छल्ला की लभदा फिरे
यारों उसदा घर केदा
लोकन तो पुछदा फिरे

challa ki labhda phire
challa ki labhda phire
yaaron usda ghar keda
lokan toh puchhda phire

What does the ring-wearer keep searching for, wandering? Friends, where is his house, he keeps asking the people, wandering.

The song opens by asking the wanderer what he is looking for and never lets him answer. Labhda phire is the verb of endless searching, find-wandering, and it is the sound of the whole song. The second question is the real one. Usda ghar keda, where is his house, asks after the beloved in the Punjabi idiom, and the lanes answer with the song itself.

چھلا challa
a plain ring; here the one who wears it, the wanderer
لبھنا labhna
to look for, to search: Punjabi

02  — challa hansda phire

چھلا ہنسدا پھرے
چھلا روندا پھرے
چھلا گلی گلی رلدا پھرے
چھلا تو سب دا
چھلا تیرا کوئی نہیں
چھلا گلی گلی رلدا پھرے

छल्ला हंसदा फिरे
छल्ला रौंदा फिरे
छल्ला गली गली रुलदा फिरे
छल्ला तू सब दा
छल्ला तेरा कोई नहीं
छल्ला गली गली रुलदा फिरे

challa hansda phire
challa rounda phire
challa gali gali rulda phire
challa tu sab da
challa tera koi nahin
challa gali gali rulda phire

The wanderer goes about laughing. The wanderer goes about weeping. Lane after lane, the wanderer goes about losing himself. Wanderer, you belong to everyone. Wanderer, no one belongs to you. Lane after lane, he goes about losing himself.

The passage turns the wanderer's two faces into one. Hansda and rounda, laughing and weeping, are the same verb with different weather, and rulda, losing or scattering himself, is what he does in every lane. Then the song speaks to him directly, and the two lines are the whole biography: tu sab da, you are everyone's, tera koi nahin, and no one is yours. To belong to everyone and to no one is exactly the condition of the lover in this tradition.

رلنا rulna
to wander lost, to be knocked about: Punjabi

03  — rang satrangi de bul-bula di boli

رنگ سترنگی دے بلبلہ دی بولی
دھپ دے پیری چلے، چھاؤں نہ لے ڈولی

रंग सतरंगी दे बुलबुला दी बोली
धूप दे पैरी चले, छाँव ना ले डोली

rang satrangi de bul-bula di boli
dhoop de pairi chale, chhaan na le doli

Her speech is a seven-coloured song, a bubbling of every colour. She walks on the feet of the sun, and her palanquin borrows no shade.

The beloved is described in two impossibilities. Her speech is bul-bula di boli, the bubbling speech, and it is seven-coloured, which means the way she talks is a festival. Then she walks in the full sun without shade, which in this song's own language is the highest compliment, because shade is what love gives and what she does not need. The line about the palanquin, the doli, keeps the bride in the picture.

ست رنگی satrangi
of seven colours
ڈولی doli
a palanquin, the litter a bride is carried in

04  — oye kaale kaale badlan ch, chaand labhda

اویے کالے کالے بادلن چ، چاند لبدا
گونگیاں ہوا دیاں واجاں سندا
یارو آسے پاسے وسدا اے یار میرا
دکھدا نی، اُسدیوں خوشبوواں سنگھدا

ओये काले काले बदलां च, चाँद लभदा
गूंगियाँ हव्वा दियाँ वाजाँ सुनदा
यारों आसे-पासे वसदा ए यार मेरा
दिखदा नी, उसदियाँ ख़ुशबूवाँ सुनघदा

oye kaale kaale badlan ch, chaand labhda
goongiyan hawa diyan vaajan sundha
yaaron aase-paase vasadha e yaar mera
dikhda ni, usdiyan khushbuvaan sungdhda

In the black black clouds he finds the moon. He listens to the voiceless winds' melodies. Friends, my beloved lives right here, all around. He cannot be seen, and the wanderer breathes in his scents.

The searching turns inside out. The beloved is not far, the song says: he lives aase-paase, all around, and the reason he cannot be found is that he is not seen at all, only smelled. The lover has become a dog of love, tracking by scent. The moon in the black clouds and the voiceless wind's music are the two ways the invisible shows itself, and the passage ends with the only sense that works.

گونگی goongi
mute, without a voice
وسنا vasna
to dwell, to live somewhere: Punjabi

05  — na visal hoya, kadi na judaai hai

نا وصال ہویا، کدی نا جدائی ہے
عشق دے قیدی دی نا رہائی ہوئی
لوکاں سپنے چوں ملن دا وعدہ اُسدا
ساری ساری رات نہ اکھ لگدی
میرے ساہ وی تھوڑا تھوڑا گھٹ آؤندے
میری نبض وی تھوڑی گھٹ واجدی

ना विसाल होया, कड़ी ना जुदाई है
इश्क़ दे क़ैदी की ना रिहाई होई
लोकां सपनों चों मिलन दा वादा उसदा
सारी सारी रात ना अख लगदी
मेरे साह वी थोड़ा थोड़ा घट आउंदे
मेरी नब्ज़ वी थोड़ी घट वाजदी

na visal hoya, kadi na judaai hai
ishq de qaidi ki na rihaai hoi
lokan sapnon chon milan da vaada usda
saari saari raat na akh lagdi
mere saah vi thoda thoda ghat aunde
meri nabz vi thodi ghat vaajdi

No meeting ever happened, and no separation either. There is no release for a prisoner of love. His promise to meet me lives inside people's dreams. All night long the eyes will not close. My breath comes a little shorter. My pulse beats a little lower.

The passage is the wanderer's real answer. Visal and judaai, meeting and separation, are the two states every love poem divides the world into, and this love falls in the crack between them: neither came. The beloved's promise of a meeting survives only in other people's dreams. Then the body gives its own report. Breath shorter, pulse lower, night after night. The laughter of the first passage has gone quiet, and the search has become a pulse.

وصال visal
union with the beloved
جدائی judaai
separation
رہائی rihaai
release from prison
نبض nabz
the pulse

Reading it whole

The song is a riddle with the answer hidden in plain sight. Challa is the ring a Punjabi lover wears and it is the wanderer who wears it, and the first question, ki labhda phire, what do you keep searching for, is answered by the search itself. The wanderer asks the lanes where the beloved's house is, and the song keeps refusing to name the house.

The middle passages are the answer in the beloved's own idiom. Her voice is the speech of a seven-coloured bulbula, a bubble or a cuckoo in a festival of colours, depending on how you hear it. She walks in the sun and does not borrow the shade. She is the moon hiding in black clouds. The wanderer finds her by scent when she cannot be seen, which is the oldest way of finding what is always present.

The last passage is where the lightness stops. Neither meeting nor separation ever came, the wanderer says, and there is no release for a prisoner of love. The nights do not let the eyes close. His pulse runs low, his breath comes short. It is the same body that laughed through the lanes in the first passage, and the song has quietly taken it from comedy to endurance.

Rabbi Shergill's recording carries it with a thumping dhol line that makes the wandering sound like dancing. The film places it at the moment a man decides to keep living after the love he spent a lifetime searching for is gone, and the song's answer to the question is the only one it ever gives: keep looking.

Recordings

  • Rabbi Shergill

    From Jab Tak Hai Jaan (2012), composed by A. R. Rahman. The film version from Jab Tak Hai Jaan, with the dhol line that makes the wandering sound like dancing.

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Text and rights

Devanagari text supplied and checked by a reader who knows the language. The Urdu script and the transliteration follow that reading.

The song is from the film Jab Tak Hai Jaan (2012), music A. R. Rahman, lyrics Gulzar. It is written largely in the Punjabi of the region, and the spellings here follow the reading; the same lines are printed with variant spellings in many lyric books.

Gulzar is alive and the song is recent work. It is quoted here as the subject of Harf's own criticism: the translation, the reading of each passage and the essay around them are original work written for this page. If you hold the rights and would like something changed, tell us on Instagram.